Wheels Up!

With less than a week left in our Peace Corps service, we’re pretty anxious to move on.  Before we leave, here’s a brief recap of our last couple of weeks.

We both have finished up our work at the Pohnpei Department of Education.  For Roger, that has meant one last Principals’ Academy session.  He also facilitated another strategic planning session involving District Office leadership, principals, a couple of Pohnpei State legislators, and the Governor.  The goal was to give substance to the overarching challenges faced by the Department, along with identifying short- and long-range solutions to those challenges.  Similarly, Lin just finished up a final session with the newly formed Lead Teacher group.  These teachers have really taken hold of their new-found importance within the educational system and have been a fun group to help develop.  We have both been asked to return to Pohnpei occasionally to continue guiding some of these efforts.  For lots of reasons, we’re not sure that will happen, but it is gratifying to experience their appreciation.  Speaking of appreciation, we were honored by the Department with a dinner the other night—lots of food offerings and kind words.

Aside from work commitments we are hoping to get in one or two more hikes within the next week.  There is a waterfall Lin has yet to see, and we would like to climb to the top of Sokehs Ridge for one last view of the harbor and this end of the island.

(A few days later)  We did get in a last hike on Sokehs Ridge.  Quite fittingly for Pohnpei it rained for most of the hike.  When we climbed the look-out at the top, we saw absolutely nothing….everything was completely socked in with fog!  Lucky for us, we took our umbrellas.  

As most of you know, we are taking the long way home, heading west with an initial stop on the island of Biak, Indonesia where Roger’s father served during WWII.  From there, via Singapore, to Cambodia for several days at Siem Reap and the temples at Angkor Wat.  From there, via Bangkok and Qatar to Morocco where we will spend several days in Marrakesh and a couple of days trekking in the Atlas Mountains.  From there, home!  If all goes as planned, we expect to be back in the Adirondacks by April 20.

All of the above will likely generate one last blog post, once we are home and settled.  It has been fun sharing this Peace Corps adventure with all of you.  We look forward to reconnecting soon!

Sapwuahfik

“No plane on Sunday; maybe be one come Monday.”

Jimmy Buffet ran through my head as the plane’s arrival to take us back to Pohnpei kept getting pushed back from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. to maybe 2:00.  But, that’s the end of the story; it began five days earlier.

Lin and I and another Peace Corps Response Volunteer were invited to travel with a couple of other Pohnpei Department of Education folks to do some staff development work on the Sapwuahfik atoll.  Considered part of Pohnpei State, this atoll is about 90 miles south of Pohnpei.  There are some 10 small islands around a large lagoon.  The only inhabited island is Ngatik, which is about a third of a square mile and contains around 400 or so pretty isolated folks.  Its population is of mixed origin.  There was a well-documented massacre that occurred here in the 19^th Century when the crew of a British ship, along with some Pohnpeian ne’er-do-wells, landed and killed all the males.  Apparently a bunch stayed on, intermarried, and developed their own unique language based in part on Pacific maritime jargon.  Many generations later there remains a unique group of people who speak their own distinct version of Pohnpeian.

There are two ways to get to Sapwuahfik—either by a small six-passenger plane that comes and goes twice a week, or more commonly, by an FSM ship that arrives every 2-3 months en route to the outer islands of Pohnpei and the other states of the FSM.  As you might expect, the arrival of the ship is a big deal.  There is no dock here, so the ship anchors outside the reef and people take small boats out to the ship to bring back or drop off cargo—everything from pigs and household supplies to food and clothing.  Apparently, it’s like a trip to the big city—school is cancelled and everyone heads out to buy and barter.  I’m sorry our timing did not work out to take the ship, but the plane was pretty exciting in its own right.  We (and all of our belongings) got weighed on a scale before departure.  Our captain was not reassuring when he said he could carry six people, although five would be better.  Once weighed and loaded, we took off from the Pohnpei airport.  It has been a while since either one of us have been in a small twin engine prop plane like this—very loud and subject to bouncing around a bit.  However, the view of Ant Atoll and then Sapwuahfik from the air was pretty incredible—well worth the trepidation.  Admittedly, our first sight of the runway at Sapwuahfik was a bit unnerving—seemingly much too short and separated from the island. 

Passenger view of takeoff 

Above and below - Ant Atoll 

We snorkeled in this cut several months ago

Sapwuahfik Atoll showing the small islands and lagoon 

Approaching the runway...yikes! 

Ngatik Island, from the runway

Kids greeting new arrivals

As described in previous posts, living on Pohnpei takes some adjustment; living on Sapwuahfik, even more so.  There are no motor vehicles, no roads, no stores, no electricity (except for some areas served by solar panels), no internet access.  Except for the school, a Sapwuahfik municipal building, and a couple of churches, there are no structures to speak of other than homes.  It is even closer to the equator, so all buildings are pretty much “open air,” taking advantage of any breeze off the ocean.  There is a wide “boulevard” around the island that is beautifully maintained by families and communities along its path. On the ocean side there is typically a stone (coral) wall separating most homes from the water and, we were told, to keep the pigs apart from the houses.  Wheel barrows and bicycles are in abundance, transporting everything from small children to coconuts.

The "Boulevard"

Coral walls

The people were wonderful, greeting us with a smile and in all ways generous.  Three adolescent girls were assigned to us, accompanying us around the island and making sure we had whatever we needed.  Parents are very much involved in their children’s education, with PTA representatives often attending classes, cleaning the grounds, and helping the principal deal with truancy or tardiness.  The PTA and teachers honored us with a couple of pot-luck dinners which consisted of various fish (both cooked and sashimi), bananas, taro, breadfruit, coconuts, and rice (the latter being the only food of choice that is imported).  All of these ingredients are offered in a wide variety of combinations—mashed, baked, raw, etc. 

Our tour guides

Traditional outrigger canoes carved from large breadfruit trees

The school principal and traditional boat builder 

The Sapwuahfik Elementary School is pretty much the only show in town and serves as both the educational and social hub.  It educates children from pre-school through grade 8.  Older children must leave the island to continue their education on Pohnpei.  In addition to the school building itself, the campus includes a cement basketball court, complete with solar lamps.  It was in use most of the time we were there.  Surrounding the area are five or six thatched nahs that are used for eating lunch or simply relaxing.  We provided several workshops on various educational topics and strategies.  I was not always sure we were hitting the mark—the assumptions that drive most of the work we do are not always accurate for a school in this setting.  But, teachers and principal were unfailingly appreciative!

Sapwuahfik Elementary School

First grade teacher "checking for understanding" as taught by Linda

Kindergarten kids' post-lunch clean-up

Lin and I stayed in a hut about 40 yards from the ocean, built on stilts.  We had a visiting pig underneath for a while, but he wandered off.  Most nights there was a nice breeze off the water.  The bathroom and (loosely defined) shower accommodations were down the road a bit next to the school.  We were pretty comfortable, although sleeping on the floor might best be left for younger folk.

Our "Hut"

As suggested by the above, our trip home was delayed a bit, but we made it safe and sound.  Another unforgettable experience!

The Caroline Islands Air Inc. weigh-in terminal

Waiting for our flight at the departure lounge

 

Peace Corps Goal #1

“…to help the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.”

So, 10 months into this one year gig, how are we doing?  As one of our several Peace Corps Country Directors put it, “’Go slow’ is the mantra of development.”  And, “slow” certainly characterizes our progress.   But, we are making headway, and we do seem to be appreciated for what we bring to the Pohnpei Department of Education, so there is room for optimism.

From school-based positions designed to help individual schools meet accreditation standards, our Response roles have evolved to the point where we facilitate, coordinate, and deliver staff development opportunities to teachers and administrators in all schools on the island.  In the language of Peace Corps, we are attempting to “build capacity” among those we serve.

Roger’s focus is leadership.  He has designed and delivered workshops and retreats for principals on topics that run the gamut, from broadly defined concepts related to leadership such as accountability and leadership styles to nuts and bolts topics such as running faculty meetings, time management, and budgeting.  A modest example of recent progress was the establishment of an advisory group of principals who have been charged with helping to identify future subject matter for these workshops.  Most recently, Roger convinced one of the skilled Pohnpeian principals to provide training to his peers—a perfect example of building capacity.  Roger has also been working with the Director of the Pohnpei Department of Education (akin to a superintendent of schools of a large US school system).  In this capacity he developed and delivered a strategic planning retreat for central office staff which has better defined district issues and plans to address them.

Linda’s focus is teacher performance.  Soon after she arrived she began working with a Response colleague (who has since completed his service) to develop and deliver teacher training workshops, traveling to schools all around the island.  Topics have ranged from lesson planning and teaching strategies to assessment and classroom management.  She has followed these presentations with teacher observations—the goal being to observe and reinforce the application of these concepts within classrooms.  Just last week Linda and Roger combined forces to provide what may be the most promising endeavor yet.  With the help of the district’s newly minted staff development coordinator, we delivered a two-day retreat to principal-designated “Lead Teachers” from each school.  Our goal was to provide initial training in areas of leadership and staff development strategies to these teachers who, with the support of their principals, will become teacher leaders within their schools, helping to improve teaching and learning among their peers.  During our last couple of months, Linda will again be traveling around the island, helping these newly designated leaders to get started with some initial action plans.

So, progress certainly—although all of this needs to be viewed within the context of a school system that is badly in need of material and human resources.  Some days we make progress, other days, not so much.  We do feel that we have gradually gained credibility and achieved a comfort level with many of our counterparts.  Relationships have changed subtly.  People are more at ease with us, and we with them.  After 10 months we are comfortable sharing thoughts and opinions.  Our counterparts, in turn, are more willing to accept (or reject) our counsel, knowing that it is given honestly by Peace Corps friends and colleagues.

If there is a downside it is that this development takes time, of which we have little remaining.  Ideally, others would continue what we have begun.  Unfortunately, however, the future of the Response program in Micronesia is uncertain, subject to a review by the Peace Corps—but that’s a whole other story.  In the meantime, it has been a great privilege to represent the Peace Corps in a capacity that, for us, has been an incredible experience!

Education Day  One thing the Pohnpeians do well is celebrate (even modest) success.  This week we celebrated “Education Day.”  School was cancelled (the irony was not lost on us…) and staff members and selected students all met at the gymnasium complex of the College of Micronesia.  Awards were given to students, recognizing attendance and academic achievement, and to staff members, in the form of Teachers of the Year awards.  Those schools that recently achieved accreditation status were also recognized.  Lots of speeches, applause, and songs, with the staff members of most schools and the District Office flaunting their own “uniforms,” i.e. identical Hawaiian shirts for the men and muumuus for the women.  Students representing pre-K through high school age levels also performed.  As usual, the little ones stole the show.

Early Childhood Education students in traditional costume.

Bigger kids performing

Pohnpei's overall "Teacher of the Year"--one of our Lead Teachers!

Peace Corps Response Volunteers in uniform

Kamadipw en Wahu #2

As we have gotten to know more people on Pohnpei, we have enjoyed both their company and their hospitality.  Last weekend we were invited to another Kamadipw, this one in U municipality.  As reported previously, these community festivals typically take place in the fall, but due to some changes in U’s traditional leadership (older gentlemen giving up their positions to the next generation), this one was postponed until January.  In talking with people at the festival, we learned a little more about traditional leadership.  Not only is there a regional “King” or Nahnmwarki, there is also a “Prince” or Nahnken.  As the English translations suggest, the two positions are not equal, but since these gentlemen must come from different matrilineal lines, they serve to balance power.  At any rate, both leaders, as well as many with lesser titles, were in attendance. 

As is always the case, the Kamadipw takes place to honor leadership, primarily through the traditional gifts of pigs, yams, and sakau.  As was explained to us, the status of a man depends on his ability to offer all three—the more offered, the higher one’s standing.  As a result, there was indeed an abundance of all three—as well as many other gifts, from pillows and blankets to fruit and traditional skirts—most of which was hung from a couple of trees located next to the nahs (open pavilion).  While the leadership goes home with some of this largess, most gets distributed among the folks in attendance.  Somehow this redistribution seems to get carried out efficiently, with everyone leaving happily with something.  For Lin and me, it was a big chunk of pork, fruit, sugar cane, and coconuts.  Good people; a good time.

Our hosts, Mr. and Mrs. Edgar.  The gentleman is a school principal and also a traditional leader within his community.

Linda and the Village Chief

This lovely lady is well positioned within her community and also serves as our Peace Corps "Volunteer Support Specialist" 

A machete is the tool of choice for opening a coconut.

It's hard not to dribble coconut water down your chin.

Mwaramwars ready for distribution

A nice lady with a flower

A traditional oven.  Once the wood burns down and heats the rocks, the pigs are singed to remove the bristles.  Then some of the rocks are removed and the yams are added to the coals and covered with green leaves to cook.

Pigs and Yams

Baskets are woven on the spot from coconut palm fronds and used to carry the yams to the nahs where the ceremony took place.

Gifts were piled in a tree and hung from the branches

Sakau in the making.

I felt honored in being asked to sit at one of the rock tables where the sakau was being prepared.  Given the impact of sakau  on my digestive system, however, this may be my last swallow....

Kosrae

On Christmas Day we boarded a Nauru Airlines one-hour flight to Kosrae, the eastern most island state of Micronesia located some 350 miles southeast of Pohnpei.  We stayed at the Pacific Treelodge Resort for six days of relaxation.  At 42 square miles and around 6,000 people, the island is much smaller than Pohnpei—also cleaner, less densely populated, and more like what you expect of a Pacific island.  One road circles about 4/5 of the island and usually follows a route within a few yards of the ocean.  Given spectacular coral reefs and unusually clear water, most visitors to the island come to dive.  The rest of us, just to relax.  That said, we did have some pretty neat experiences.

Treelodge  The resort we stayed in is just across the road from the ocean, providing opportunity to walk along the beach at low tide.  It is situated, however, in mangrove swamps, the depth of which changes depending on the tides.  A long elevated walkway takes you to Bully’s Restaurant (named after a notorious 19^th Century pirate in these parts) where we had most of our meals.  The restaurant is located on an inland waterway that is also tidal.  Calling this place a “resort” is a bit of a stretch, but the accommodations were certainly comfortable enough.  The food was said to be the best on the island.  Unique was a Kosraean soup (with a fish base) and a delicious bread made from taro root.

Low Tide

Lacey formation along the beach

Walkway through the mangroves to the restaurant.

Our next door neighbor

Church “Marching”  Strictly by chance, our stay on Kosrae coincided with a church-based event that happens every four years during the Christmas holiday.  Kosraeans from all over the world come back home and participate with the locals in a festive gathering at one church on the island.  There were 11 “teams”—half of which represented local churches and the other half made up of Kosraeans who had settled in places like Guam, Pohnpei, Hawaii—even Seattle!  Anyway, each group wore shirts and dresses unique to their team and marched into the church, singing at the top of their lungs.  Each group then proceeded to sing and march around the front of the church for nearly an hour.  Periodically, they would reach into bags and throw candy and small gifts to everyone seated in the church.  Needless-to-say, the children strategically positioned themselves to reap the most benefit.  During their performance, there was an opportunity for their supporters in the audience to walk to the front of the church and contribute an offering.  At the end, the performers marched out of the church, continuing to throw out more candy and gifts.  It was pretty clear that most of Kosrae’s 6,000 locals and visitors were centered around Tafunsak Church on this day. 

Boat Trip to Walung Village  Accessible only by boat, with neither roads nor electricity, Walung offered us a glimpse into a traditional rural life on Kosrae that hasn’t changed much.  We hired a young man with a small open boat and a 30 hp motor to take us around the north and west shore of the island to the village.  The first part of the trip was tricky—even at high tide the route took us through coral on or near the surface.  We scraped bottom numerous times, which didn’t seem to faze our captain as much as me.  Once we arrived we wandered the village from end to end.  The main street is a dirt path running parallel to the coast.  On one side houses; on the other the ocean.  There is a church and an elementary school (where a Peace Corps volunteer teaches).  We also met a contingent of Navy Seabees who are building a small clinic.  This has been no easy task as all the materials have to be shipped in by small boat.  The Navy spokesperson we talked with indicated that they anticipate working here until next summer when their outfit will move to one of the other islands in the FSM.  Like the schools, their work is funded by U.S. aid—the “Compact of Free Association” money that has been ongoing since the FSM become independent in the 1980’s.  Our return boat trip was even more fun in that our captain veered into the mangroves along part of the coast, following narrow channels only accessible during high tide.

Our Captain 

Main Street Walung Village

Navy Seabees at work building a clinic.

Walung Elementary School

Also…  In addition to the above, we took walks along the shore, met and ate with interesting folks such as an Australian engineer and his wife currently finishing up a water reclamation project in the Marshall Islands.  We also had the opportunity to meet and eat with the Peace Corps volunteers serving in Kosrae—both two year volunteers and another Response volunteer.  One evening we took a sunset cruise of Lelu Harbor with its view of the “Sleeping Lady” mountain.  Before we left we also visited the “Green Banana Paper Company,” a small business enterprise started by an ex-World Teach volunteer who decided to remain on Kosrae.  We got a tour of his business which employs and trains local artisans to use fiber from banana and taro plants to make paper and various weavings.  Their work is beautiful.  As you would expect, we didn’t escape without Lin purchasing a weaving. 

 

The Sleeping Lady Mountain

If you're crazy enough to run at my age, it would be tough finding a better place to do it.

All in all, a fun and relaxing six days.