Kamadipw en Wahu #2

As we have gotten to know more people on Pohnpei, we have enjoyed both their company and their hospitality.  Last weekend we were invited to another Kamadipw, this one in U municipality.  As reported previously, these community festivals typically take place in the fall, but due to some changes in U’s traditional leadership (older gentlemen giving up their positions to the next generation), this one was postponed until January.  In talking with people at the festival, we learned a little more about traditional leadership.  Not only is there a regional “King” or Nahnmwarki, there is also a “Prince” or Nahnken.  As the English translations suggest, the two positions are not equal, but since these gentlemen must come from different matrilineal lines, they serve to balance power.  At any rate, both leaders, as well as many with lesser titles, were in attendance. 

As is always the case, the Kamadipw takes place to honor leadership, primarily through the traditional gifts of pigs, yams, and sakau.  As was explained to us, the status of a man depends on his ability to offer all three—the more offered, the higher one’s standing.  As a result, there was indeed an abundance of all three—as well as many other gifts, from pillows and blankets to fruit and traditional skirts—most of which was hung from a couple of trees located next to the nahs (open pavilion).  While the leadership goes home with some of this largess, most gets distributed among the folks in attendance.  Somehow this redistribution seems to get carried out efficiently, with everyone leaving happily with something.  For Lin and me, it was a big chunk of pork, fruit, sugar cane, and coconuts.  Good people; a good time.

Our hosts, Mr. and Mrs. Edgar.  The gentleman is a school principal and also a traditional leader within his community.

Linda and the Village Chief

This lovely lady is well positioned within her community and also serves as our Peace Corps "Volunteer Support Specialist" 

A machete is the tool of choice for opening a coconut.

It's hard not to dribble coconut water down your chin.

Mwaramwars ready for distribution

A nice lady with a flower

A traditional oven.  Once the wood burns down and heats the rocks, the pigs are singed to remove the bristles.  Then some of the rocks are removed and the yams are added to the coals and covered with green leaves to cook.

Pigs and Yams

Baskets are woven on the spot from coconut palm fronds and used to carry the yams to the nahs where the ceremony took place.

Gifts were piled in a tree and hung from the branches

Sakau in the making.

I felt honored in being asked to sit at one of the rock tables where the sakau was being prepared.  Given the impact of sakau  on my digestive system, however, this may be my last swallow....