Sapwuahfik

“No plane on Sunday; maybe be one come Monday.”

Jimmy Buffet ran through my head as the plane’s arrival to take us back to Pohnpei kept getting pushed back from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. to maybe 2:00.  But, that’s the end of the story; it began five days earlier.

Lin and I and another Peace Corps Response Volunteer were invited to travel with a couple of other Pohnpei Department of Education folks to do some staff development work on the Sapwuahfik atoll.  Considered part of Pohnpei State, this atoll is about 90 miles south of Pohnpei.  There are some 10 small islands around a large lagoon.  The only inhabited island is Ngatik, which is about a third of a square mile and contains around 400 or so pretty isolated folks.  Its population is of mixed origin.  There was a well-documented massacre that occurred here in the 19^th Century when the crew of a British ship, along with some Pohnpeian ne’er-do-wells, landed and killed all the males.  Apparently a bunch stayed on, intermarried, and developed their own unique language based in part on Pacific maritime jargon.  Many generations later there remains a unique group of people who speak their own distinct version of Pohnpeian.

There are two ways to get to Sapwuahfik—either by a small six-passenger plane that comes and goes twice a week, or more commonly, by an FSM ship that arrives every 2-3 months en route to the outer islands of Pohnpei and the other states of the FSM.  As you might expect, the arrival of the ship is a big deal.  There is no dock here, so the ship anchors outside the reef and people take small boats out to the ship to bring back or drop off cargo—everything from pigs and household supplies to food and clothing.  Apparently, it’s like a trip to the big city—school is cancelled and everyone heads out to buy and barter.  I’m sorry our timing did not work out to take the ship, but the plane was pretty exciting in its own right.  We (and all of our belongings) got weighed on a scale before departure.  Our captain was not reassuring when he said he could carry six people, although five would be better.  Once weighed and loaded, we took off from the Pohnpei airport.  It has been a while since either one of us have been in a small twin engine prop plane like this—very loud and subject to bouncing around a bit.  However, the view of Ant Atoll and then Sapwuahfik from the air was pretty incredible—well worth the trepidation.  Admittedly, our first sight of the runway at Sapwuahfik was a bit unnerving—seemingly much too short and separated from the island. 

Passenger view of takeoff 

Above and below - Ant Atoll 

We snorkeled in this cut several months ago

Sapwuahfik Atoll showing the small islands and lagoon 

Approaching the runway...yikes! 

Ngatik Island, from the runway

Kids greeting new arrivals

As described in previous posts, living on Pohnpei takes some adjustment; living on Sapwuahfik, even more so.  There are no motor vehicles, no roads, no stores, no electricity (except for some areas served by solar panels), no internet access.  Except for the school, a Sapwuahfik municipal building, and a couple of churches, there are no structures to speak of other than homes.  It is even closer to the equator, so all buildings are pretty much “open air,” taking advantage of any breeze off the ocean.  There is a wide “boulevard” around the island that is beautifully maintained by families and communities along its path. On the ocean side there is typically a stone (coral) wall separating most homes from the water and, we were told, to keep the pigs apart from the houses.  Wheel barrows and bicycles are in abundance, transporting everything from small children to coconuts.

The "Boulevard"

Coral walls

The people were wonderful, greeting us with a smile and in all ways generous.  Three adolescent girls were assigned to us, accompanying us around the island and making sure we had whatever we needed.  Parents are very much involved in their children’s education, with PTA representatives often attending classes, cleaning the grounds, and helping the principal deal with truancy or tardiness.  The PTA and teachers honored us with a couple of pot-luck dinners which consisted of various fish (both cooked and sashimi), bananas, taro, breadfruit, coconuts, and rice (the latter being the only food of choice that is imported).  All of these ingredients are offered in a wide variety of combinations—mashed, baked, raw, etc. 

Our tour guides

Traditional outrigger canoes carved from large breadfruit trees

The school principal and traditional boat builder 

The Sapwuahfik Elementary School is pretty much the only show in town and serves as both the educational and social hub.  It educates children from pre-school through grade 8.  Older children must leave the island to continue their education on Pohnpei.  In addition to the school building itself, the campus includes a cement basketball court, complete with solar lamps.  It was in use most of the time we were there.  Surrounding the area are five or six thatched nahs that are used for eating lunch or simply relaxing.  We provided several workshops on various educational topics and strategies.  I was not always sure we were hitting the mark—the assumptions that drive most of the work we do are not always accurate for a school in this setting.  But, teachers and principal were unfailingly appreciative!

Sapwuahfik Elementary School

First grade teacher "checking for understanding" as taught by Linda

Kindergarten kids' post-lunch clean-up

Lin and I stayed in a hut about 40 yards from the ocean, built on stilts.  We had a visiting pig underneath for a while, but he wandered off.  Most nights there was a nice breeze off the water.  The bathroom and (loosely defined) shower accommodations were down the road a bit next to the school.  We were pretty comfortable, although sleeping on the floor might best be left for younger folk.

Our "Hut"

As suggested by the above, our trip home was delayed a bit, but we made it safe and sound.  Another unforgettable experience!

The Caroline Islands Air Inc. weigh-in terminal

Waiting for our flight at the departure lounge