A Funeral

I’ve talked about how funerals are a big deal on the Island of Pohnpei.  Sadly, one of the PICS High School English teachers died suddenly yesterday morning.  She was young—early forties, but apparently had a heart condition.  The principal made the decision to call off school for a day and a half, and the faculty met to determine what they would do to honor the deceased.  The decision was made to collect a donation of $10 from everyone and use the money to buy a pig and some sakau.  Below is a picture of the PICS’ pig in the back of a pick-up, about to meet its maker.  Also, some sakau.

I was asked if I would like to attend along with the faculty, so I spent the day at a pretty unique event.  In broad strokes, the Pohnpeian funeral traditions are similar to ours—a funeral service followed by a short service at the grave site followed by a reception.  Beyond that, however, totally different.   Below are pictures showing the first phase.  People filed in and out of the building where the funeral service was taking place.  Others, like me, paid our respects by sitting outside on the red benches underneath the shelter.  It might have been a bit more somber if it were not for a female dog in heat seeking refuge under the benches while a couple of very focused males tried to reach her.  As you will see from the pictures, dress was very casual.  I was a bit over-dressed in my best black Hawaiian shirt and flip flops.  I struck up a conversation with the guy trimming the skin off a mango with his machete.  He was a retired teacher at PICS and had spent time attending the University of Oregon.  He frequently managed to work “Go Ducks” into the conversation.

Location of the funeral service

Go Ducks!

When the service ended everyone trekked up a hill to a burial plot behind the church.  The pastor led prayers and people sang several hymns.  One of the pictures below shows young men passing large rocks down from the hillside which were placed in the grave.

From the grave site we walked a couple hundred yards to a large open pavilion where the festivities began.  As we filed into the pavilion we passed by a dozen or so pigs that had been disemboweled and a large fire pit where each was seared before becoming part of the ceremony.  In a couple of other areas there were men preparing sakau on large stone tables. The Nahnmwarki and other dignitaries sat on a raised cement platform at one end of the pavilion.  The rest of us sat along the sides or on chairs in the center area.  We were first served rice and pork in little plastic containers.  After an hour or so, the show began.  A small army of young men carried the seared pigs down the center aisle and placed them on large palm fronds in front of the dignitaries.  They, in turn, were followed by men carrying large woven palm baskets full of breadfruit and yams.  The men carrying the pigs used machetes to hack apart the carcasses.  Much of the meat was then passed out to all of us in the audience—not to be eaten there since it was minimally cooked, but to be taken home.  I did receive a section of pork ribs but gave them away, given my limited cooking capacity.  The lady sitting next to me received a pig’s head.  Once the meat course was over, the same group of young men brought in sakau branches and roots and piled them in the center aisle in front of the dignitaries.  There were a half dozen speeches—I wish I could understand what was said.  The final speaker was the Nahmwarki.  Ceremonial offerings of prepared sakau were then provided to a select few.  At that point most of the sakau was removed from the pavilion, ending up in the back of pickup trucks.  What sakau remained was prepared for distribution among the people who remained.  I left at that point to catch my ride back to Kolonia.  Sitting on hard cement for 2-3 hours is about the limit for me.  Another interesting experience!   Sadly, given the death rate, probably not my last.

Fire pit

Searing the pork

Sakau root on a large stone table after having been beaten by rocks

Straining sakau through hibiscus bark

Seated in the pavilion.  The PICS principal is the gentleman in blue jeans

Carrying in the pigs

Distributed pork

The pile of sakau brought in for the ceremony

Breadfruit