First Couple of Weeks

I am just completing my second week as a Peace Corps Response volunteer, assigned to Pohnpei, one of four islands that make up the Federated States of Micronesia.  My year-long assignment is that of an Education School Improvement Facilitator.  My wife Lin will be joining me around August 1^st. serving in a similar capacity.  This blog will serve to keep friends and family at least somewhat informed regarding where we have landed for the next year and what we’re up to.

With only two weeks on site, my initial impressions are pretty raw and uninformed, but I’ll share some anyway…. 

Kolonia  I have been assigned to Pohnpei’s capital city of Kolonia (with a population of around 6,600, make that a capital “town”).  One of the Peace Corps folks used the word “ramshackle” to describe the city.  Seems pretty accurate to me.  Lots of cement block and corrugated tin construction, open air markets, and “mom and pop” neighborhood stores.  There’s not much evidence that anyone thought of zoning, with various businesses and homes (often one and the same) scattered about helter-skelter.  Cars in various states of disrepair line roads and driveways, seemingly left where they finally gave out.  However, as the largest population center on the island, it can surprise you.  It has an Ace hardware, for example, that has become my “go-to” place for most everything I’ve needed to furnish my apartment.  The Ace Office Supply store next door also has the best food market I’ve found—go figure.  There are also several pretty fair size hotels in town, along with a number of pretty good restaurants.  Several large buildings are under construction, and along the shoreline in and around Kolonia are several decent marinas and resorts.  So, lots of contrasts.  The pictures include a couple of shots on the causeway from the airport into town and couple of town shots (more of those to come).  Loose dogs, by the way, are everywhere.  Most of the females look as though they have a litter of puppies nearby, while the males obviously scoff at the idea of neutering.

My apartment  I actually feel a bit guilty—Peace Corps volunteers are supposed to be roughing it in remote locations.  Well, Pohnpei qualifies as remote by most standards, but my apartment in Kolonia has most of the conveniences you could hope for—wi-fi and air conditioning to name two.  I think I will also get cable TV, although that seems to be slow in coming.  There are some oddities like the only hot water is in the shower and there’s only one overhead light bulb for the apartment.  But, all-in-all, I’m very comfortable.  As noted in the picture, I am located in an apartment above a used clothing and electronics store, next door to a Laundromat.  Life is good.

The Schools  I have been assigned to the three high schools on the island.  The largest, Pohnpei Island Central School (PICS) is the largest with about 1,500 students and is located in Kolonia and within a 15 minute walk from my apartment.  The other two are much smaller, and both are located about an hour from Kolonia, but in opposite directions.  The plan is for me to spend at least a day in each school each week.  Transportation is a bit of a challenge since PC volunteers cannot drive.  I will have to rely on any rides I can arrange from within the school system and/or take taxis.  Around town, taxis have proven to work pretty well.  They usually come fairly quickly and only charge a dollar to go anywhere in Kolonia.  

Last week one of the Department of Education “Chiefs” took me to the three high schools, as well as most of the elementary schools.  It was an all-day trip taking the road that completely encircles the island.  The road is now paved.  Picture a 1-2 lane road turning and twisting through jungle.  Most of the time you can’t see much beyond the vegetation, although there are a few sections with some pretty impressive views of ocean and outer islands.  There is much evidence of rural poverty, with only a few mom and pop roadside stands selling bread, drinks, and canned goods.  At any rate, I met the two principals in the rural schools and will spend my first full day with them next week.  

For most of the first week I concentrated my time at PICS.  By any measure, this is a school in need of change.  The irony for me is that I’ve spent much of the last several years as an expert witness in a case several New York State small city school districts have brought against the State, arguing that they are underfunded.  Any of the schools here would feel overwhelmed with gratitude for just a small fraction of the plaintiff’s level of funding.  All relative, I guess.   

The reason for PC Response volunteers in the schools in Micronesia is to help them meet national accreditation standards.  The standards address expectations in the six areas of leadership, teacher performance, data management, curriculum standards and benchmarks, the condition of the school campus, facilities and classrooms, and the quality of the schools’ improvement plans.  Given what I’ve seen so far, there is significant room for improvement in all areas—but of course, that’s why we’re here.  Some pictures of PICS will help tell the story.

The last picture in this series is the entrance to the main office.  I am not sure you can get a sense of the size of the campus, given individual pictures, but it is large, with a dozen or more buildings. I did not highlight issues like the library, bathrooms, trash, or graffiti, but hopefully these can be dealt with sooner rather than later. 

As for me, I’m doing fine.  The Peace Corps training stressed something they call the “Cycle of Vulnerability and Adjustment,” which stresses the crossed-cultural issues and shock volunteers typically experience in the first couple of months.  In other words, ups and downs are to be expected.  Along with my family (and family dog), I miss things like good friends and good bread, wine and cheese. But, it is pretty amazing to suddenly realize you are really on the other side of the world, hoping and expecting to do some good.  The next 12 months (and hopefully this blog) will tell the tale.  Next time, more about the people and customs.  Much to tell!